The world of watchmaking has gathered once again at Watches & Wonders 2024, the most anticipated event of the year for enthusiasts and professionals in the sector. Among the extraordinary novelties and the most fascinating creations, Edoardo Armentano guides us through a personal and in-depth story: a journey through luxury, innovation and tradition, told with the expert eye of someone who lives watchmaking with passion and competence.
April 2024 witnessed a less sparkling edition of Watches & Wonders than last year's edition. After two years of absolute boom in our sector, a "pause" phase to catch one's breath was to be expected. However, it would be a mistake to think that brands have remained inert, giving up on launching new products. Immobility does no one any good, and not even the brands of Pisa 1940 were caught unprepared.
W&W 2024: A Journey Through the Most Fascinating Models
In this context, I have selected some watches that have particularly struck me, wishlist pieces that, unfortunately, will remain only daydreams for me, given their rarity and inestimable value. This is not a ranking, but a personal reflection on the most interesting creations.
TAG Heuer , for example, continues in the wake of the "Glassbox" design introduced last year. If the cliché teaches us that it is difficult to repeat oneself, TAG Heuer proves the opposite: the green dial presented at the LVMH Watch Week had already enchanted me, but this new Chrono "Panda" with bracelet has exceeded all my expectations. It is a watch that must be tried on the wrist: do not be fooled by the lukewarm appeal of the images, in person it is decidedly more wearable and interesting. In a market where prices are constantly rising, at the figure of 6500 euros, it is difficult to come across something so powerful.
IWC Portugieser: An Icon of Haute Horlogerie
This year too, I award a prize to the brand that, in my opinion, created the best launch: IWC Schaffhausen.
After a 2023 marked by great expectations, in which the relaunch of the Ingenieur had received a rather lukewarm reception, 2024 seems to have brought a positive change. I was pleasantly surprised by the Eternal Calendar , a complicated and “talking” watch.
piece” par excellence. In an increasingly competitive market, it is essential to have a product that gets people talking and that can drive an entire collection.
The new Portuguese are particularly fascinating, elegant and evocative, thanks to the particularity of the dials that evoke the different atmospheres of day and night. Horizon Blue evokes the clear sky of early afternoon, when the sun is at its peak and the light spreads with intensity. Dune , on the other hand, recalls the afternoon. The Obsidian dials , with their deep black, recall the sparkling lights of the city at night, while the gold indexes and gold hands create an impeccable contrast. Those who know how to appreciate the shades of the sky at any time of the day will find in these watches a refined tribute to the beauty of the passing of time.
Lange & Söhne and Rolex enchant the scene
For those lucky enough to own a rare wrist, Lange & Söhne is definitely worth a look. The Lumen collection , inaugurated in 2010 with the Zeitwerk , stands out for its smoked glass dial that reveals the internal components, with luminous sections that ensure visibility even at night. The sixth model in the series is a true masterpiece: Tourbillon , perpetual calendar, flyback chronograph with jumping minute counter, and perpetual calendar with Grand Date, day/night and moon phases. With only 50 pieces produced worldwide, seeing one in person will be a rarity.
I conclude with Rolex , which has further refined its collection with targeted launches, surprising me with the new Rolex 1908. This watch, launched last year, immediately won me over with its elegant case, distinctive dial and sophisticated hands. It is a piece that stands out from the other sporty models of the maison , demonstrating once again the incomparable class and precision of Rolex .
In-depth analysis by Edoardo Armentano
Partnership Director Italian Watch Spotter
