An absolute icon of haute horlogerie, the Tank by Cartier is so iconic that its name has become almost synonymous with “rectangular dial watch”. A model of timeless elegance, worn on the wrists of the most prominent members of the jet set, it continues to be a symbol of style and refinement.
The genesis of the Tank is rather unusual and, combined with the enormous prestige of the manufacturer and its ability to innovate, contributes to fuelling the myth of a legendary accessory.
The Cartier Tank: the birth of an icon
In 1917, while studying the design for a new watch with clean lines, Louis Cartier was struck and fascinated by the sight of a tank from above: the First World War was in progress and the tank in question was the French army's Renault FT. It was the first time this type of vehicle had been involved in wartime operations.
The aerial view of the tank was illuminating and inspired not only the name of the watch but also the rectangular shape of its dial. The two parallel bands at the sides recall the tracks of the vehicle as seen from above and, known as brancards, are still the unmistakable signature of the model today.
The inspiration from a heavy and brutally impetuous vehicle translates into a symbol of absolute refinement and purity. And therein lies the genius of Cartier, who succeeded in creating a unisex accessory that was absolutely innovative for its time: the Tank is a rectangular watch for men and for women too, with no gender restrictions.
Cartier's new creation was launched on the market in 1919 and was an instant success.
Cartier's new creation was launched on the market in 1919 and was an instant success.
The Tank watch: a constantly evolving design
The Tank's fortune is due primarily to its avant-garde design compared to the classic round watch: the lines are extremely clean even compared to the Cartier Santos, Cartier's first wristwatch.
The strap attachments built into the case, the contrasting finishes, the crown set with a small sapphire, and the blued steel sword-shaped hands have defined its style from the very first example, introducing a very high standard characterised by lightness, refined design and a very slender silhouette.
While wearing different guises, from the Cartier Tank in gold to the versions with steel cases, this iconic watch remains true to its essence. 1921 marked the beginning of its evolution, with the birth of the Tank LC, from the initials of Louis Cartier, with its refined brancards and elongated case, followed in 1936 by the Tank Asymétrique with its diamond-shaped dial. At the end of the 1970s, it was the turn of the Tank Must with a monochrome dial that sealed the Tank's supremacy as a must-have watch for those with a free personality and an elegant style.
In 1988, Cartier launched the Tank Américaine which, with its curved case and generous lines, became an interpreter of modern times. The Tank Française, a tribute to the maison's origins, saw the light in 1996 and inaugurated a bracelet with metal links in perfect continuity with the case. In 2023, both the Tank Française and the Tank Américaine by Cartier were reinvented, continuing the evolution of a legendary symbol of the highest quality and good taste.
The Rectangular Dial: everyone loves it, everyone wants it
The many celebrities who have worn the Tank by Cartier have helped fuel its prestige and its legendary reputation. Cartier's watch was first seen on the silver screen in 1926, on the wrist of Rudolph Valentino in George Fitzmaurice's silent movie “The Son of the Sheik”, but the boom in popularity (and sales) of the much-coveted rectangular dial watch came in 1963, when it was worn by style icon Jackie Kennedy, a lover of minimal silhouettes and clean lines.
The American first lady had received her Tank by Cartier in yellow gold and leather strap as a gift from her sister Lee's husband, Polish Prince Stanislaw Albrecht Radziwill, and from then on she wore it on her wrist all the time. In the 1970s, the Cartier Tank was among the most sought-after exclusive accessories. Andy Warhol owned one, about which he said “I don’t wear a Tank watch to tell the time... I wear a Tank because it is the watch to wear!”
Princess Diana, who was a veritable queen of style, began wearing Cartier's Tank on her wrist after her separation from Prince Charles, when her look became more elegant and contemporary. She had a Tank Solo with a yellow gold case and black leather strap and an all-gold Tank Française given to her by her father, which has now been inherited by Meghan Markle.
Many other celebrities have chosen the Tank by Cartier, including Catherine Deneuve, Muhammad Ali, Yves Saint Laurent, Sofia Coppola and Madonna. Today, vintage Cartier Tanks and new models continue to be cult pieces for lovers of haute horlogerie with minimalist lines, eternal interpreters of a style that will never go out of fashion.
Explore the origin of the Santos model and Cartier's main collections: they embody the union between exceptional craftsmanship and timeless design.
