Watch crown: what it is, what it's for, types, and how to replace it

The watch crown is one of the smallest yet most crucial elements in the proper functioning of a timepiece. Often overlooked, it plays an essential role in the interaction between the wearer and the internal movement, enabling fundamental operations such as setting the time, date, and winding the mechanism .

Understanding what a watch crown is , how it is made, what functions it performs, and what types it comes in allows us to better appreciate the technical complexity of a high-end watch and to adopt correct behaviors to preserve its integrity over time.

What is a watch crown and what does it look like?

The crown of a watch is a small knob , generally located on the right side of the case, connected directly to the movement via an axis called the stem or crown shaft . From a construction point of view, it is composed of several elements : the external head , often knurled to facilitate the grip; the internal axis , which transmits the movement; and the clutch mechanisms that allow the different operating positions.

When we talk about watch crowns , we're referring to a precision technical component, designed to resist mechanical stress, dust infiltration, and, in waterproof models, water pressure. In luxury watches , the crown is often personalized with the brand's logo and made of precious materials such as steel, gold, or platinum.

What is the watch crown for: its functions

Understanding the purpose of a watch crown means analyzing its main functions. First, the crown allows you to set the time by directly turning the hands through the internal movement.

In models with a date display, the crown also allows you to set the date and, in some cases, the day of the week or other complications. In manually wound watches, the crown also serves to wind the mainspring , supplying energy to the movement.

In more complex watches, the crown can be used to control additional functions such as time zones, power reserve, or other complications . The precision and reliability of these operations depend largely on the construction quality of the crown and its clutch mechanisms.

Types of watch crowns: the most common ones

In the world of watchmaking, there are various types of watch crowns , designed to meet functional, safety, and waterproofing needs. Among the most common solutions are:

• Push-pull crown : This is the most common type in traditional watches. The crown is pulled out to one or more positions to adjust the time and date, and then returned to the case flush with the case. It offers ease of use, but requires special care to ensure it is always pushed back in correctly;

• Screw-down crown : mainly used in watches designed for sports and diving. The crown unscrews to allow adjustment and screws back in to lock it, compressing the gaskets and improving water resistance;

• Push-button crown (or "push-button") : this is a more specific solution, adopted in some models for design reasons or to integrate certain functions. In these cases, the crown may have a reduced travel and a clutch system that favors a cleaner profile of the case;

• Oversized or "pilot" crown : characterized by larger dimensions and often pronounced knurling. It was historically developed to facilitate grip even with gloves (aviation and military use), but today it is also present as a distinctive aesthetic element;

• Recessed or protected crown : this is not a type of "operation" in the strict sense, but a construction solution frequently found in sports watches. The crown is partially recessed into the case middle and/or protected by lateral shoulders, reducing the risk of impact and limiting the possibility of involuntary extraction;

• Crown on the dial (crown at 12) or alternative placements : Some timepieces feature the crown in non-traditional positions (e.g. at 4 o'clock or 12 o'clock) for ergonomic, design reasons, or to reduce interference with wrist movement.

Watch crowns: the most common shapes

In addition to their functional type, watch crowns are distinguished by their shape, an aspect that influences ergonomics, model recognition, and stylistic coherence. Among the most common shapes are:

• Straight (cylindrical) crown : this is the most common shape, with a regular profile and lateral knurling for improved grip. It is used across many watch categories because it offers a good balance between practicality, solidity, and aesthetic discretion;

• Onion crown : characterized by a rounded, domed silhouette. Historically associated with pocket watches and aviation timepieces, it was designed to make adjustment easier even under difficult conditions. Today, it often represents a vintage aesthetic and identifying element, especially in historical reissues;

• Conical crown : features a profile that tapers outward, with a more streamlined design. It is common in elegant or contemporary models, as it reduces visual impact while maintaining a functional grip;

• Cabochon crown : features a decorative stone (or insert) on the crown head, often for primarily aesthetic purposes. It's typical of timepieces where watchmaking meets jewelry, and can significantly contribute to the collection's identity;

• Flat or recessed crown : more discreet, often used to reduce lateral bulk and improve comfort on the wrist. It is common in watches with clean, minimalist lines, where the crown must be unobtrusive without compromising functionality;

• Recessed crown : it is partially "recessed" into the case. This solution reduces the risk of accidental impacts and creates a cleaner side profile, but may require more pronounced knurling or a more precise design to ensure an effective grip during adjustment;

• Crown with integrated guard or "hat" : In some models, the shape of the crown is designed to work in synergy with the case shoulders or guards, creating a functional whole. It's not just about style: the geometry can help improve component protection and limit the entry of dirt or particles into critical areas.

How to use the watch crown: what you need to know

Correct use of the crown is essential to keep your timepiece in good working order. Adjusting the time and date must be done delicately, avoiding force or sudden movements .

Furthermore, for watches with a screw-down crown, it's essential to ensure the crown is fully tightened after each operation to maintain water resistance. Signs such as a crown that spins freely, won't screw in, or comes off may indicate a mechanical problem and require the intervention of a specialized technician.

How to remove the crown of a watch

Removing a watch crown is a highly technical operation, requiring specific tools and professional expertise. To remove the crown, you need to work on the movement, unlocking the system that holds the crown stem.

Attempts to remove or disassemble the crown without proper preparation can cause irreversible damage to the movement, stem, or case. For this reason, operations such as cleaning or replacing the watch crown are performed exclusively in specialized laboratories, where each intervention is carried out in compliance with the manufacturer's specifications.

Changing a watch crown: why you should trust Pisa 1940 and its specialized workshops?

The watch crown is a fundamental element, both discreet and essential, for the proper functioning and longevity of a high-end timepiece. If you need to clean, replace, or restore the crown, it's always advisable to rely on specialized centers like the Pisa 1940 laboratories , where qualified watchmakers operate according to the standards of the most prestigious watchmakers.